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Coastal and estuarine processes
Nielsen, P.E. (2009). Coastal and estuarine processes. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering, 29. World Scientific: New York. ISBN 978-981-283-711-0. xiv, 343 pp.
Part of: Liu, P.L.-F. (Ed.) Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering. World Scientific: Singapore. ISSN 1793-074X, more

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Document type: Training material

    Coastal morphology; Coastal processes; Estuarine environment; Groundwater; Hydraulics; Hydrodynamics; Sediment transport; Storm surges; Surf zone; Tides; Water waves; Wind-driven currents; Marine; Brackish water

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  • Nielsen, P.E.

    This book is an introductory treatment to coastal and estuarine processes for earth scientists or engineers. Suitable for a first course on the subject, it covers water waves, surf zone hydrodynamics, tides in oceans and estuaries, storm surges, estuarine mixing, basic sediment transport, coastal morphodynamics and coastal groundwater dynamics.

    The book contains a substantial amount of new material. For example, the explicit, analytical treatment of transient, forced long waves strongly enhances the discussion on tsunami, storm surges and surf beat. The treatment of turbulent mixing includes finite mixing length effects, which provide an explanation for differential diffusion of different sediment sizes in suspension. The recently discovered effects of acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming are also included in the basic sediment transport models. In addition, the treatment of beach groundwater dynamics: The mechanisms by which waves as well as tides drive groundwater motion, builds the link between the previously unconnected fields of coastal hydraulics and regional groundwater modeling.

    To serve as an effective reference book for professionals, the book is fully indexed and comprehensively cross referenced.
    • Water Waves
    • Surf Zone Hydrodynamics
    • Wind-Driven Circulation and Surges
    • Tides
    • Estuaries and Estuarine Hydraulics
    • Sedimentary Transport Mechanisms
    • Morphodynamics
    • Coastal Groundwater Dynamics

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