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Measured and modeled wave overtopping on a natural beach
Laudier, N.A.; Thornton, E.B.; MacMahan, J. (2011). Measured and modeled wave overtopping on a natural beach. Coast. Eng. 58(9): 815-825.
In: Coastal Engineering: An International Journal for Coastal, Harbour and Offshore Engineers. Elsevier: Amsterdam; Lausanne; New York; Oxford; Shannon; Tokyo. ISSN 0378-3839, more
Peer reviewed article  

Available in  Authors 

    Barrier beaches; Modelling; Wave overtopping; Wave runup; Marine
Author keywords
    Wave overtopping; Barrier beach; Wave run-up

Authors  Top 
  • Laudier, N.A.
  • Thornton, E.B.
  • MacMahan, J.

    The rate of wave overtopping of a barrier beach is measured and modeled. Unique rate of wave overtoppingfield data are obtained from the measure of the Carmel River, California, lagoon filling during a time when thelagoon is closed-off with no river inflow. Volume changes are based on measured lagoon height changesapplied to a measured hypsometric curve. Wave heights and periods are obtained from directional wavespectra data in 15 m fronting the beach. Beach morphology was measured by GPS walking surveys. Threeempirical overtopping models by Van der Meer and Janssen (1995), Hedges and Reis (1998) and Pullen et al.(2007) with differing parameterizations on wave height, period and beach slope and calibrated usingextensive laboratory data obtained over plane, impermeable beaches are applied in a quasi-2D manner andcompared with the field observations. Three overtopping events are considered when morphology data wereavailable less than 2 weeks prior to the event. The models are tuned to fit the data using a reduction factor toaccount for beach permeability, berm characteristics, non-normal wave incidence and surface roughnessinfluence. In addition, the run-up model by Stockdon et al. (2006) based on field data is examined and foundto underestimate run-up as the calculated values were too small to predict any of the observed overtopping.The three overtopping models performed similarly well with values of 0.72–0.87 for the two narrow-bandedwave cases, with an average reduction factor of 0.78. The European model (Pullen et. Al., 2007) performed bestoverall and in particular for the case of the broad-banded, double peaked wave spectrum.

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