In: Sarsia. University of Bergen. Universitetsforlaget: Bergen. ISSN 0036-4827; e-ISSN 1503-1128, more
Also appears in:
Brattström, H.; Matthews, J.B.L. (Ed.) (1968). The Importance of Water Movements for Biology and Distribution of Marine Organisms: 2nd European Symposium on Marine Biology, Bergen 24-28 August 1967. Sarsia, 34. Norwegian Universities Press: Bergen. 398 pp., more
A qualitative description is given of the physics of wave forces. Besides the well-known case of non-breaking waves with rigid boundaries, the paper describes the mechanism of breaking and the very intense but short pressure pulses caused by breaking waves. The effects of flexible boundaries are also briefly discussed.In a given locality the problem of resisting wave forces depends for each organism on its shape and compliance. Favourable shapes and strength properties are suggested.
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