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Spatial variations of directional wave spectra in coastal waters
Ocampo-Torres, F.J. (1998). Spatial variations of directional wave spectra in coastal waters, in: Marine meteorology and related oceanographic activities: provision and engineering/operational application of ocean wave data Unesco, Paris, 21-25 September 1998. pp. 21-30
In: (1998). Marine meteorology and related oceanographic activities: provision and engineering/operational application of ocean wave data Unesco, Paris, 21-25 September 1998. World Meteorological Organization: Geneva. 347 pp., more

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    Marine

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  • Ocampo-Torres, F.J.

Abstract
    Ocean surface waves in coastal regions are influenced by bathymetry and other local factors (currents, wind, etc), which could enhance the nonlinear nature of the waves, inducing complex patterns and certain spatial variability. Satellite synthetic aperture radar images are used to study the spatial detail of the wave spectra in a shallow water region in the northwest of Baja California, Mexico. Complex structure wave spectra are retrieved from the image information usually resolving (if present) two or more wave systems from different sources, with different frequencies and directions of propagation. in situ sensors provide rather smooth spectra, even if it is clearly evident from the radar images the presence of more than one wave system. Directional wave spectrum shape variation within the study region can easily be detected from the radar information. Further study of these aspects of waves in shallow water environments will result in some benefit to operational wave modelling and forecast in the area, where oil tankers unloading operations are routinely performed. Details of the spectral shape and total wave energy are investigated in relation to the mixing process waves can induce, since potential oil spills would require advance modelling in order to improve prediction of any contaminant dispersion and movement.

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