Closure depth - Bewerkingsoverzicht

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‎References

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Dronkers J op 28 jan 2013 om 17:24

Dronkers J — Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:24:30 GMT

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Daphnisd op 28 jan 2013 om 10:37

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-{| style="border:1px solid #abd5f5; background:#f1f5fc; margin:0em 0em 0em 0em;"
+{| style="border:1px solid #abd5f5; background:#f1f5fc; margin:0 auto;"
-|<center>The main author of this article is [http://www.coastalwiki.org/index.php?option=com_imis&module=person&Itemid=17&persid=11184 Różyński, Grzegorz]<br></center>
+|<center>The main author of this article is [http://www.coastalwiki.org/imis/imis.php?module=person&persid=11184 Różyński, Grzegorz]<br></center>
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 Formation of the offshore shoals can be attributed to earlier coastal and geologic processes and not to offshore movement of sediment from the present beach. The convergence of the profile envelope landward of the offshore [[Shoal|shoals]] indicates that movement of sediment on the shoals is not directly related to sediment exchange on the nearshore profile. Therefore, h<small>in</small> for the profile data shown in Fig. 1, corresponding to 4-year time interval, is approximately 18 ft or 5.5 m.<p>
-{| style ="margin-left: 1em" align="center" style="text-align:center; font-size:85%" Width="525px"
+{| style="text-align:center; font-size:85%; Width:525px; margin: 0 auto"
 |[[Image:Closure depth Mean, envelope and standard deviation of profile survey elevations .png|525px]]
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		+	\|name=Job Dronkers
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	{{Definition\|title=Closure depth		{{Definition\|title=Closure depth
	\|definition= This very short entry boils down to a simple definition, supported by the well known Hallermeier-equation, see Hallermeier (1981) <ref name="Hallermeier 1981">Hallermeier, R. J. (1981). A Profile Zonation for Seasonal Sand Beaches from Wave Climate. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 4, 253-277.</ref>, characterizing the depth of closure by significant [[waves]] occurring 12 hours in a given year. Since a clear potential exists to expand this definition into a more detailed contribution, such an attempt is presented below. }}		\|definition= This very short entry boils down to a simple definition, supported by the well known Hallermeier-equation, see Hallermeier (1981) <ref name="Hallermeier 1981">Hallermeier, R. J. (1981). A Profile Zonation for Seasonal Sand Beaches from Wave Climate. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 4, 253-277.</ref>, characterizing the depth of closure by significant [[waves]] occurring 12 hours in a given year. Since a clear potential exists to expand this definition into a more detailed contribution, such an attempt is presented below. }}

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 {| style="border:1px solid #abd5f5; background:#f1f5fc; margin:0em 0em 0em 0em;"
-|<center>The main author of this article is [http://www.coastalwiki.org/index.php?option=com_imis&module=person&Itemid=17&persid=11184 Różyński, Grzegorz]<br><small>With contributions by: Tadeusz Basiński, Rafał Ostrowski, Zbigniew Pruszak, Jan Schöhnofer, Marek Skaja, Piotr Szmytkiewicz and Marek Szmytkiewicz</small></center>
+|<center>The main author of this article is [http://www.coastalwiki.org/index.php?option=com_imis&module=person&Itemid=17&persid=11184 Różyński, Grzegorz]<br></center>
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@@ Regel 83: / Regel 83: @@
 Equation 5 has the advantage to incorporate only a single parameter to estimate DoC without the need to determine the wave height and period exceeded 12 hours in a particular time interval. However, it is not applicable for estimating DoC for a particular storm event as discussed below.<p>
 In the original formulation of Hallermeier (1981) <ref name="Hallermeier 1981"/> and subsequent modifications, the DoC was defined based on the largest wave height exceeded 12 hours per year. This definition incorporates a time element, but the exact event associated with the value of wave height is ambiguous. Depending on changes in storm activity and wave conditions from year to year, the predicted DoC can vary substantially. In order to determine a representative value of the DoC based on this definition, wave conditions averaged over a period of several years must be employed.<p>
-A useful extension of calculating the DoC based on average annual wave conditions is to relate the DoC to a particular time period of interest over which specific storm events or seasonal wave conditions occur. A similar “wave-by-wave” interpretation of the DoC was introduced by Kraus and Harikai (1983) <ref name="Kraus and Harikai (1983)">Kraus, N. C., and Harikai, S. (1983). Numerical model of the shoreline change at Oarai Beach, CoastaI Engineering 7(l), l-28.</ref>. In a wave-by-wave or event approach, the DoC can be associated with a recurrence frequency or return period for a particular storm. The return period should be associated with the wave height, not with the [[storm surge]].
+A useful extension of calculating the DoC based on average annual wave conditions is to relate the DoC to a particular time period of interest over which specific storm events or seasonal wave conditions occur. A similar “wave-by-wave” interpretation of the DoC was introduced by Kraus and Harikai (1983) <ref name="Kraus and Harikai (1983)">Kraus, N. C., and Harikai, S. (1983). Numerical model of the shoreline change at Oarai Beach, CoastaI Engineering 7(l), l-28.</ref>. In a wave-by-wave or event approach, the DoC can be associated with a ''recurrence frequency'' or return period for a particular storm. The return period should be associated with the wave height, not with the [[storm surge]].
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@@ Regel 71: / Regel 71: @@
 It produces a smaller estimate of the depth of closure than the Hallermeier equation (1) for given wave conditions.
-Houston (1995) <ref name="Houston 1995">Houston, J. R. (1995). Beach-fill volume required to produce specified dry beach width, Coastal Engineering Technical Note 11-32, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS.</ref> simplified Birkemeier’s formulation using properties of a Pierson-Moskowitz wave spectrum (Rijkswaterstaat 1986) <ref name="Rijkswaterstaat">Rijkswaterstaat (1986). Manual on artificial beach nourishment, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, The Netherlands.</ref> and a modified exponential distribution of significant wave height over time to express the DoC in terms of mean annual significant wave height <math>\overline {H_{s}}</math> according to  <math>H_{in} = 6.75 \overline {H_{s}}</math>. Following Houston’s approach, the Hallermeier equation can similarly be expressed in the form: <br>
+Houston (1995) <ref name="Houston 1995">Houston, J. R. (1995). Beach-fill volume required to produce specified dry beach width, Coastal Engineering Technical Note 11-32, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS.</ref> simplified Birkemeier’s formulation using properties of a Pierson-Moskowitz wave spectrum (Rijkswaterstaat 1986) <ref name="Rijkswaterstaat">Rijkswaterstaat (1986). Manual on artificial beach nourishment, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, The Netherlands.</ref> and a modified exponential distribution of significant wave height over time to express the DoC in terms of mean annual significant wave height <math>\overline {H_{s}}</math> according to  <math>h_{in} = 6.75 \overline {H_{s}}</math>. Following Houston’s approach, the Hallermeier equation can similarly be expressed in the form: <br>
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@@ Regel 77: / Regel 77: @@
 (5)
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-<math>H_{in} = 8.9 \overline {H_{s}} * MLW</math><br>
+<math>h_{in} = 8.9 \overline {H_{s}} * MLW</math><br>
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@@ Regel 53: / Regel 53: @@
 (3)
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-<math>FR = \Fraq {U_{b}^2}{(s-1)gh} = 0.03</math>
+<math>FR = \frac {U_{b}^2}{(s-1)gh} = 0.03</math>
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