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Theme 5 gap filling project

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Here, we aim to identify and list gaps within Theme 5 - Long term geomorphological change and climate impacts. Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming the stubs listed here. Please use the New page and Help:Contents.



  1. Types of ocean wave - Progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), kelvin (coriolis+topog.), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy.
  2. Wind wave generation - Jefferies, Miles, Philips, WAM, WavewatchIII.
  3. Linear wave theory / Airy wave theory redirect - Just the basics, table showing shallow, intermediate, deep formulae
  4. Wave measurement
  5. Shoaling
  6. Refraction - expand definition
  7. Diffraction - expand definition
  8. Reflection - partial reflection, linking to clapotis, scour
  9. Setup - definition or short article
  10. Setdown - definition or short article
  11. Runup - definition or short article
  12. Wave impact
  13. Wave current interaction
  14. Overtopping
  15. Ship waves - Wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
  16. Wave breaking - Iribarren no, other criteria, models
  17. Stokes wave theory
  18. Non-linear wave theories - cnoidal, solitary, limits of application
  19. Wave spectrum
  20. Wave modelling - operational, coastal, cfd and sph
  21. Edge wave / Infragravity wave redirect


  1. Tide - me = general article linking to more specific articles, classification of tides
  2. Equilibrium theory of tides - forces (gravitational, centrifugal), solar, lunar, syzygy, quadrature, spring, neap
  3. Dynamical theory of tides - amphidromic systems, co-range, co-tidal, kelvin wave, tidal constituents, diurnal, semi-diurnal
  4. Tidal resonance - in harbours and basins
  5. Tidal prediction - harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific example
  6. Tidal constituents - table of principal tidal components, specific example
  7. Tidal power
  8. Tidal bore
  9. Hydrodynamic modelling
  10. Storm surge - expand definition and show examples and photos


  1. Inlet ???
  2. Estuary hydrodynamics
  3. Estuary geomorphology
  4. Classification of estuaries - stratified, well-mixed, salt-wedge, flood-dom, ebb-dom, bar-built, rias, fjiords
  5. Estuary modelling
  6. ICZM issues in estuaries


  1. Tidal current
  2. Wind driven current
  3. Currents - email!!
  4. Rip current - expand definition
  5. Longshore current - expand definition

Flood risk

  1. Flood risk
  2. Extreme event - storm surge plus high tide, rainfall, storm waves
  3. Extreme event analysis - gumbel distribution, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
  4. Risk management strategies - cost/benefit, mitigation


  1. Sediment - general article linking to more specific articles
  2. Sediment classification - grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
  3. Non-cohesive sediment - just need definition
  4. Sediment transport - general article linking to non-cohesive and cohesive sediment dynamics, ST under tidal currents, ST under waves
  5. Sediment budget - origins/input
  6. Non-cohesive sediment dynamics - turbidity max
  7. Cohesive sediment dynamics
  8. Dredging - expand the existing definition
  9. Sand mining
  10. Aeolian transport
  11. Contaminated sediments
  12. Cross-shore sediment transport
  13. Longshore sediment transport



  1. Geomorphology - general article linking to more specific articles

Time and Space Scales

  1. Time and space scales in geomorphology

Classification of coastal features

  1. Classification of coastal features - accretional, erosional, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes,
  2. Mudflat - expand existing definition, mudflat morphology, link to saltmarsh morphology
  3. Saltmarsh morphology
  4. Bedform - wave generated, tidally generated
  5. Beach cusp - expand definition
  6. Rhythmic shoreline feature - beach cusps, rip current embayments and cuspate shorelines, crescentic bars, welded and transverse bars, large-scale capes adn erosional embayments, links to specific articles, such as beach cusp
  7. Beach berm - add section on berm formation

Classification of coasts

  1. Classification of coasts
  2. Rocky coast ??? - cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
  3. Wave dominated coast - barriers, beaches, dunes, bars, macrotidal ridge and runnel
  4. Tide dominated coast - estuaries
  5. Fluvial dominated coast - deltas


  1. Morphodynamics - feedback
  2. Sea level change - indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy?, tectonics, climate change
  3. Geomorphological modelling - Bottom up process based, physics based / Top down aggregated or abstracted / Hybrid


  1. Glaciology
  2. ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology
  3. Quaternary geology - sand banks, case studies,
  4. Profile response to storms
  5. Shoreline profile - also Equilibrium profile and Parametric equilibrium models
  6. Shoreline planform

Coastal engineering

  1. Coastal engineering - general article linking to more specific articles and Theme 8
  2. Groyne
  3. Breakwater - shore-connected, detached, port and harbour, floating, link to the other articles
  4. Sea wall
  5. Sill
  6. Soft shoreline protection solutions - expand stub, link to more specific articles
  7. Beach nourishment
  8. Dune management
  9. Tidal flats and marshes - need better title
  10. Coastal defence options - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change.

Climate change

  1. Climate change - extend existing definition
  2. Climate change impacts - me = general article linking to more specific articles, link to articles on sea level change
  3. Saltmarsh climate change dating - Roland Gehrels?


  1. Environmental impact assessment - expand definition
  2. UK Marine Bill
  3. Scottish Marine Bill
  4. UK Coast observatory network - Andrew Bradbury, Travis Mason?
  5. Hydrology - Martin Borthwick, Will Blake
  6. MSP redirect? - Marine Spatial Planning - Gillian Glegg?


  1. WM4WH - anna?
  2. PRIMARE - deborah?
  3. Wavehub - deborah?
  4. Flooding Consortium Projects - dominic, jose?
  5. EPIRUS - qingping, adrian?
  6. OVI - alison?
  7. RF-PBLE - dave, dominic?
  8. LEACOAST - shunqi?
  9. CRF - coastal research facility, impact of breakwater - suzana ilic? shunqi?
  10.  ??? - Jon Williams?