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Directional effects of winds, waves and currents along the Dutch North Sea Coast
Van Straaten, L.M.J.U. (1961). Directional effects of winds, waves and currents along the Dutch North Sea Coast. Geol. Mijnbouw 40: 333-346
In: Geologie en Mijnbouw. Koninklijk Nederlands Geologisch Mijnbouwkundig Genootschap: The Netherlands. ISSN 0016-7746; e-ISSN 1573-9708, more
Peer reviewed article  
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Keywords
    ANE, North Sea
    Direction > Wave direction
    Motion > Atmospheric motion > Winds
    Netherlands
    Transport > Sediment transport
    Netherlands [Marine Regions]; North Sea [Marine Regions]
    Marine/Coastal
Author  Top 
  • Van Straaten, L.M.J.U.
Abstract
    As yet very little is known about the movements of sediment along the Dutch North Sea coast. In this paper new data are presented regarding the directions in which sediment transport seems to take place. Some of the main conclusions are as follows. The directions of Dutch coastal dunes appear to vary with a) the primary orientation of the foredunes and b) the relative effect of winds of moderate strength blowing from angles that differ from those of the stronger but less frequent winds. The magnitude of this effect depends on the width of the wind-formed depressions in the dune areas. Wave observations show that sand drift must be strong along the northern barrier islands (from west to east), but that its importance must be small along the more south-north directed part of the coast between Katwijk and Texel. This conclusion seems to agree with direct sedimentological evidence. Comparison of meteorological data with beach measurements between Scheveningen and Bergen reveals that the relatively frequent westerly and south-westerly winds in the second half of the 19th century resulted in an important (temporary) landward shift of the low tide line.
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