Modelisation mathématique de l'évolution morphologique des plages
Khellaf, M.C. (1991). Modelisation mathématique de l'évolution morphologique des plages. PhD Thesis. Université de Liège: Liège. different pagination pp.
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| Available in | Author |
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Document type: Dissertation
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| Keywords |
Earth sciences > Geology > Geomorphology > Coastal morphology > Beach morphology
Modelling
Models > Mathematical models
Topographic features > Landforms > Coastal landforms > Beaches
Transport > Sediment transport
Marine/Coastal |
| Abstract |
The subject of this work is the developement of a mathematical model for bottom evolution in shallow water. It is based on three principal models:
- wave
- currents
- sediment transport
A wave model is developed using a new propagation equation. This model take simultaneously into account refraction, diffraction, breaking and bottom friction.
The energy dissipation function by breaking is deduced by energetic equivalence with bore. A series of model tests carried out in the L.B.C.N. Laboratory of Liege University proved the validity of the proposed model.
The mean flow model is deduced from the classical Navier-Stokes and continuity equations. It is based on the radiation stress concept. Turbulence, boundary conditons at the open sea and convergence criterions of the non-linear system are widely discussed.
The sediment transport model is centered on an extensive bibliographical study about the actual state of knowledge in sedimentary processes. An analysis and discussion of the different parameters and approximations are approached.
A numerical model of bottom evolution in shallow water is then developped.
Its application to didactic examples and real circumstances has shown all the interest of a numerical simulation in shore protection study and prediction of its evolution. |
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